Dreamy Dubrovnik and its Wine Growing Regions

Dreamy.  That’s really how to sum it all up.  I said today, ‘If people in the U.S. knew how beautiful it was here (Croatia and the Dalmatian Islands), they would never vacation in Hawaii or Mexico again.’  Seriously.
We flew into Dubrovnik, the ‘Walled City’, last nite.  Gorgeously polished cobbled streets line the inside of the city.  On the outskirts, which is where we are staying…you wake up to this sort of fairy-tale like scenery.  I think I’m moving.  Seriously.  If I can convince my husband to start growing Plavac Mali grapes here with me, call me Croatian.  The Dalmatian Islands which line the Adriatic are surrounded by the most surreal jade colored waters.  They say there are over 1,000 islands out there and on a good day, you can see Italy.  Well, we couldn’t see Italy today, but let me tell you what I did see…
The most amazing views.  This morning, we awoke early for our day excursion to the quaint little city of Orebic.  The roads were enough to turn your stomach inside out with its twig like guard rails and windy spirals, but the views around each corner just kept getting better and better.  Finally to the last turn, which landed immediately to Orebic’s new winery:  Korta Katarina.  The winery and its villa: Rivijera Orebic – is a spectacular site.  Owner by American and Minnesotan!, Mr Lee Anderson, holds claim to one of the most famous water front properties of its region.  The white stone floors and the fabulous windows of the tallest building in the area, will hold someday…visitors from every corner of the world.  But for now…it is the home to one of Croatia’s most coveted wineries.  And, let me tell you…this winery makes just not any wine, but really really stellar wine.  With a Winemaker of just 25 years of age, Nika Silic, is (mark my words) going to end up one of the most famous woman Winemakers of her region.  Posip, Zinfandel and Plavac Mali are the grapes she is using for her wines, and today my lucky little palate got a glimpse of some of the latest and greatest vintages: 07 and 08.  You have to try them to believe it!
Where do the grapes grow in this area? Orebic, which is situated on the Peljesac Pennisula, is home of two famous growing regions for Croatians – The Dingac and the Postup.  The Postup vineyard sites, which we first visited today, are steep.  The soil is rocky and quite white with a sort of ‘crustacean’ look to it.  Why?  Dead sea fossils make the bed of this soil, surrounded by big red rock which is great for holding the soils in place.  The vineyards are at an angle, giving the grapes a perfect suntan but also – some of the Upper Postup areas are tucked into the hillside, giving some of these sunny grapes a little acid to their structure.
Second is the famous region of Dingac (ding-gatch), tilted at such an angle that even the tiniest grape on the back of a vine, could ripen.  The views, heavenly.  The warmth of the sun was mesmerizing, reflecting straight off the waves of the Adriatic Sea.  Nika and Vineyard Mgr, Arsen, tell me that the Dingac region fetches the most money for the Plavac Mali grape because of its perfect angle to the ocean for ripening, but also because of its extreme incline.  The vineyards are actually, very dangerous to harvest.  I can’t even imagine getting my feet to stick on some of those hillsides.  Imagine throwing a basket of grapes on your back?
I get it now.  You know, I’ve been following these crazy Croatian wines now for a couple of months.  I knew they were special when I started tasting them, but I couldn’t get my head wrapped around why.  And now…I get it.  The soil, the people, the strength of this country with all that they’ve endured and the livelihood of this grape community is truly based around one thing: passion.  The Croatians are friendly, inviting, passionate and just down right great!  They feed you and drink you to no end at all hours of the day.  From plates of grilled whole squid, whole fish to spiny looking lobsters tails – the seafood will rock your world.  But most importantly, it’s how it’s served.  Gracious and somehow, even from a foreign country – the souls of these folks come from a familiar place.  It’s pretty spectacular.  My visit here holds so much more.  I could tell stories for days (and do get ready because I will post many Croatian wine conversations that I had here to YOUTUBE and add pictures to the CRUSH PAD).
And here I am…just soaking it all up.  These are the experiences that make a real sommelier.  Thank you, Croatia.  I will definitely tell your story over and over and over…
Dreamy.  Absolutely Dreamy.