Minnesota Wine

It is the million dollar question almost every night of the week that I work.            Have you had Minnesota Wine?”
Only to be followed up with…
What do you think about Minnesota Wine?
What Minnesota Wine would I recommend?
Do you think Minnesota Wine is as good as California Wine?
Night after night, I hear the same questions, and my answers surround the facts that encompass Minnesota Grapes as a specie.  Mostly with the fact that the Vitis Vinifera Grapes that we are used to, are not the same as the grapes that we are drinking from Minnesota.
What is Vitis Vinifera?  It is the ‘common grape’ specie that is native to mostly Old World Countries.  These grape vines, which have been spread around the globe at this point, are not generally of the grapes that we find cultivated here in Minnesota.  For instance, the the viticulture department of the University of Minnesota has become rock stars at breeding grapes that are hardy to our climate of extreme temperatures, mostly our cold winters.  While there are grapes that are native to the region, like the Concord wine that my grandmother used to make  in the basement, the U of M is cultivating grapes that are of different varieties.  Are these grapes the same that we know of in other parts of the world like:  Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc?   No, due to the fact that the grapes of this Vitis Vinifera stature would not survive here amongst our climate.  Does that mean that the wines that are made from these Minnesota Grapes are bad?  No way. 
To Understand Them is To Drink Them.  (That’s pretty much my motto with almost every wine!)  By drinking through them, you will then find that you can enjoy them in their own arena.  So why are so many dogging out these wines?  Because they are comparing them to their California Cabernets, or their Oregon Pinot Noirs.  To be honest, you are not comparing oranges to oranges here.  Put them into their own category as you drink them.
While many of these Minnesota Wineries are filling in their wines with juice they’ve purchased from California, like the Zinfandels or Cabernets Grapes that you know, remember that by many standards of (this state’s) wine law permit you to only use a percentage to ‘fill in’ with the native grapes that you originally started with.  So even though they may have a % of grapes that you’re familiar with, they will not necessarily ‘taste’ like the wines that you’re familiar with. 
I must say, it is a huge ‘to do’ on my list for the summer because I, as a sommelier, cannot say that I’ve been to enough wineries between Minnesota and Wisconsin to come up with my own analysis, but I have had a few in the cities that I’ve tried.  While Alexis Bailly Vineyards is one that I find to be ‘the most talked about’,  I did drive south a couple of weekends ago and right by one winery that I’ve had quite a few of, St Croix Vineyards.  The whites that I’ve had are really quite decent and found them to pair with a couple of nice artisanal cheeses for pairing. 
I suppose I come to this point, because I was hired for a wine tasting event a week or so back with a group of gals for a bachelorette party.  These tastings are so much fun.  You know why?  Because everyone comes unbiased, open for anything and ready to have fun.  The International shmattering of wines that I brought, along with a plate of artisanal cheese and handmade chocolates were fabulous, yet I could see that I had one attendee itching to show me her favorite wine.  Before we were through with the final wine in the tasting, she jumped up and said, ‘Have you ever had Minnesota Wine?  What do you think about it?!’ and so on and so forth (pretty much with the same questions that I started this blog with). 
Then she said, ‘I’d take Minnesota Wine over any wine any day, and here’s my favorite!’ 
Go Go RedShe held up the Cannon River Winery ‘Go Go Red’  ~ the Grapes: Minnesota Sabrevois, Marquette, & Foch.  Recognize any those?  Probably not, but if you live in Minnesota, then you’ve probably tried them.
My take on the wine… Juicy, approachable, full of rich raspberry, cherry and blackberry.  Supple and might be really nice with a piece of berry cobbler or a fat slice of blue cheese.  Certainly on the ‘sweet’ side, but great for those who are looking to sip something easy going.  I thought it was just fine.  Really.  And for $13, it might be kind of fun to slip into your own ‘wine tasting’ at home with friends!
Now, can I compare it to the grapes that I know that produce more acid and more body like Pinot Noir or Zinfandel?  No, but the wine has to be put into its own category.  And you know what – people love it here in Minnesota.  And apparently across the country, because it has won several awards in categories with wines of its comparison. 
I hear so many ‘doggin’ out Minnesota Wine, and it’s not a fair assessment.  Those folks are just not putting these wines in the right category in their minds as they drink them.  Whether they are made of these funky Minnesota Grapes that we’re not familiar with or of real fruit like raspberry, cherry and blackberry – they still live here and are made in YOUR community.  And what should we do with businesses of our own communities, support them.  So here’s to those Minnesotans out there bustin’ their butts to make wine.  I think we should all take another look at what’s out there and visit these wineries that are of our home state, including me!
If you’ve had any Minnesota Wines that you’ve found you like, fill me in.  I’d love some more recommendations!

Comments 10

  1. Cannon River has some really nice stuff for Minnesota wines (although there’s a couple which have lead to some major headaches the next day). It also doesn’t hurt that the Maloney’s and their winemaker Vincente are seriously nice people with an obvious love for wine and winemaking. We’re not that far from there, so if you feel the need to make your way over to check them out let us know!

  2. Thanks Saul, I will definitely check it out! And, so nice to hear that the Cannon River peeps are so cool, I will certainly be down to see them then! Thanks so much for your feedback!

  3. Saul,
    I’ve had the rosé from Crofut, which boasts an adorable farm property in Jordan and features some really neat Friday night dinner & wine pairings during the summer. It’s not 100% dry, but it’s no White Zin either, and can be very refreshing. My wife and I visited Crofut on a random afternoon last summer. It was hot, humid, a massive thunderstorm had just moved through, and it was just what we needed to beat the heat. I also really enjoyed their honey wine, in which, apparently, there is not a single drop of honey.
    Leslee,
    Alexis Bailly absolutely deserves the praise it gets. The single best afternoon Katie and I had last summer was down there in Hastings. We met up with a couple of friends on one of AB’s June open house weekends, put down a blanket on their expansive lawn (the gorgeous deck was packed), enjoyed some very drinkable wine, good company, and perfect weather.
    I also have a favorable opinion of Cannon River. We’ve gone through multiple bottles of their Mill Street Red and Cannon River Red. Like our Cork Dork in south Minneapolis, I have a hard time calling these “Minnesota Wines” because of how many imported grapes go into them, but it’s a solid effort being made by local people who couldn’t be more passionate about wine, and the native MN grapes in them do make their mark.
    I’ve heard very good things about Morgan Creek Vineyards down in the New Ulm area. If KT and I find a free weekend this summer, we may make a day trip down there.

  4. Geez, you guys are the bomb! Thank you for all the great suggestions. Nick, you’re awesome! I know have a list of great places to go and fun new people to meet. Maybe we’ll all have to go and grab a bus to get us all there. Thanks again!

  5. I just drove by one in Lindstrom on the way to the cabin…called Winehaven I think? looked interesting…think i snowmobiled by it this winter-that’s something not too many cali winerys can boast 😉

  6. Yes, will have to check out Winehaven. And, I’m a total sucker for SNOWMOBILING to wineries, being from Wisco and all. And, you’re right – those Cali wineries haven’t got much on that fact!

  7. I haven’t been that impressed with what I’ve had from Morgan Creek. The first glass was okay, and after that I seem to remember it getting overly sugary (like refined sugar). Maybe I’ve just tried the wrong wine from them, and I have yet to tour the winery. Since the inlaws are from that area it’s a definite thought for some weekend…

  8. Leslee,
    Take a look at http://mngrapegrowers.com/
    This is the homepage of the Minnesota Grape Growers Association. It has a listing of all of the Mn winery’s and wine trails.
    You bring up a good point about not compairing MN wines to Cali wines. I get on a little soapbox when I try to explain to people that Burgundy did not try to copy Bordeaux, as the Mosel did not try to copy Burgundy. Cali did not copy the old world by using stainless and oxy control. Now Argentina is giving us great new introductions into Malbec just as MN is showing a brand new wine style that highlights bright fruit, good acids and a wonderfull port style Frontenac. If you haven’t tried a local Frontenac “Port” its a must.
    Anyway, thanks for the article. We need more professionals trying our local wines and giving them feedback. P.S. We’re opening Wild Mountain Winey in August near Taylors Falls. Stop out and vist us.

  9. Leslee,
    Thanks for the great article on Minnesota wines and wineries. The key thing is that these are different grapes that produce different wines from your more common Old World grapes. If the wine is from Minnesota grapes and made well, you will taste more fruit and a bit more acid than typical California wines. Better or worse than California wines? I think the answer is “just different”.

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